The Savvy Traveler » China

Hong Kong – The Star Ferry and Victoria Harbor

Jennifer — Sat, 31 Mar 2007 01:48:07 +0000

Founded as the Kowloon Ferry, the Star Ferry has been transporting passengers from the mainland to Hong Kong Island and back for over a hundred years. Over that time the view has changed, but the romance has not.

Until the early 1970s it was the only way to make the journey. Today, in another sense, it’s still the only way to make the journey. That is, if you want to travel in style and see everything Victoria Harbor offers.

Though there are now tunnel enclosed roads and train tracks, the Star Ferry continues to offer visitors and locals alike a quick, but delightfully scenic ride. The trip takes only about 10 minutes across the water from Hong Kong Island’s Central district to Tsim Sha Tsui (the main tourist area in Kowloon) and other areas nearby.

The beginning of the journey is auspicious. Take in the 90-year-old Victoria Clock Tower standing near the ultra-modern Cultural Center on Tsim Sha Tsui. Spend a few minutes examining some of the aging red rickshaws that have been preserved at the dock.

Then travel down the ramp to board one of the colorful ferry boats; different colors for different destinations. If you’re lucky you’ll be on the Celestial Star, built in 1956 and still going strong.

Along the way, riders can see the glorious Hong Kong skyline, magnificent by day or night. The distinctive, narrow Bank of China building and the Victorian era Legislative Council Building are in full view across the harbor.

The Stock Exchange building is in front of you along with the Shanghai Bank, with its notable geometric shape. Watch for the dome of the Space Museum or the outline of Harbor City, Hong Kong’s huge indoor shopping center.

Take the trip again at night and enjoy the same view seen an entirely different way. The night skyline of Hong Kong is a rival even to the glorious Manhattan scene it resembles. Be sure to ride on the top of the double-decker boat to get the best effect.

The upper deck is considered a first class ticket, and costs all of about 10 cents more. You’ll be glad of the air-conditioned compartments during Hong Kong’s hot and often humid summers. (The cost of the ride is currently $2.20 HK, about 28 cents US.)

If you enjoy the ocean spray and want to get the experience of the humming engines, choose the lower deck and save a few pennies. (Price: $1.70HK, or 22 cents US.)

Even though the service carries over 70,000 passengers a day, the ferry leaves every few minutes so you’ll never have to wait long.

For a ride that’s more tour than transport, try the one that takes a circular route to all the ferry’s destinations. That trip still takes only about an hour.

Nathan Road, the major shopping destination for many of Hong Kong’s visitors, is only a short distance from one of the ferry’s terminals for those travelling from the island to Kowloon.

At the terminal there are buses that travel throughout Kowloon and the New Territories, but the taxis are an adventure you won’t want to miss. A bit more money, but just think of the fare as the cost of a combined transport and Disneyland ride through Hong Kong’s streets.

Hong Kong – Victoria Peak

Jennifer — Tue, 27 Mar 2007 01:47:41 +0000

Many large cities have skyscrapers that offer a view from the top. Hong Kong, as it so often does, takes a slightly different route and gives visitors Victoria Peak.

At 552m (1,810 feet) the Peak is higher than any existing skyscraper. (The Freedom Tower in New York, designed to replace the destroyed Twin Towers, will be 1,776 feet high including the spire. If completed on schedule, it will – for a while – be the world’s tallest building.)

From that height, visitors can look down on the lush, green mountainside and around at some of the $10 million homes that get to enjoy the view every day. Looking out, tourists can see Victoria Harbor – one of the world’s most active ports.

The mountainside is alive with near-tropical vegetation thanks to the hot, humid summers and the cooling sea breezes of the East China Sea at Hong Kong. Sharp eyes will occasionally pick out some of the many animal residents of the area, as well.

Though none offer tours, some angles offer a glimpse of homes that show how Hong Kong’s wealthiest residents live. America isn’t the only land that offers the resourceful and the determined a road to riches. Many homeowners here are entrepreneurs who made their fortunes in Hong Kong after starting out as poor residents of Canton and other parts of mainland China.

Looking down, you can get an expansive view of the ancient harbor and the ultra-modern city. Victoria Harbor is one of the deepest in the world, only one of the many natural attributes that has been used to good advantage by Hong Kong’s enterprising businessmen.

The port is always buzzing with the arrival and departure of ships that carry goods and passengers to and from China to every port on the globe. Ships of every national registry, both cargo and cruise, make it to Hong Kong regularly.

Near where the ships dock, a pair of binoculars will help you get a better look at some of the many boat families that still populate Hong Kong’s wharves. Here, as they have for over 200 years, fishermen and their families ply their trade in some of the toughest circumstances found anywhere.

But to see all this, first you have to get there. Visitors have several choices, including bus and tram.

The bus is decidedly less crowded, and you can still get a pretty good view as the winding road to the top circles around the mountain. This route has the added ‘benefit’ that you won’t feel the need for a rollercoaster ride again anytime soon.

Most, for good reason, take the tram up. This funicular railway is among the world’s steepest and most scenic rides in Asia. Though the term may be unfamiliar, almost everyone has seen one in person or at the movies. It’s a long, suspended-cable system in which cabs go up and down the mountain in tandem. The weight of one cab coming down helps pull the one going up.

Lines can be long so be prepared. But the wait is well worth it, as you can get another spectacular view of the harbor looking down and of the mountain looking up. This is one ride you will definitely want to take at least twice – once during the day, and again at night.

Hong Kong – Shopping in Stanley Market

Jennifer — Fri, 23 Mar 2007 01:47:12 +0000

For a slightly quieter shopping experience than Nathan Road head over from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island and visit Stanley Market.

Open only during normal business hours, Stanley hosts a wide variety of handicrafts, souvenirs and even a few designer labels. But there are also restaurants and bars and a stroll along the relaxing beach is not out of the question after a hot day of shopping.

Once a quiet fishing village, you can still see evidence of its past in the many paintings of sailing junks set against recognizable backdrops.

Chinese artwork, collectibles, silk… whatever you may be in the market for, you’ll find. Jade, of course, is frequently sought after and available here in abundance.

Wherever you go to shop in Hong Kong, whether on the island or Kowloon or elsewhere, be prepared for crowds and (in the summer) hot and humid weather. Hong Kong is a vibrant, bustling metropolis with small oases of tranquility. A little flexibility and a willingness not to take it very seriously goes a long way here.

To find one of those little oases, stop in at one of the many small temples and enjoy a few minutes of quiet between bouts of bargaining. The Tin Hau, honoring the goddess of the sea, is a good bet. Built in 1767, visitors can step in and see the genuine tiger skin and smell some relaxing incense.

While in the area, check out the Hong Kong Maritime Museum housed in Murry House. Constructed from a hundred-year-old building moved brick by brick, the museum holds over 500 exhibits of ancient pottery. There are also interactive games and displays showing Hong Kong’s historical connection to the sea.

Still in evidence are the remnants of British Colonial rule, and the navy that enforced it. But much farther back the Hakka called Hong Kong home and their history is recorded, as well.

Next to Murray House there’s even a shopping arcade and a community theater, and every Christmas Stanley Plaza hosts a free concert by the Hong Kong International School Band.

Then head out for more shopping where you can find toys, ornaments, and crafts made by the locals. Unlike Nathan Road, the area is frequented as much by locals as by the tourists (at least on the weekends). As with other shopping experiences in Hong Kong, visitors need to be prepared to bargain. It’s expected and great deals can be had for those willing to haggle.

Getting to Stanley is simple via the bus. No. 6 from Exchange Square in Central is one easy route, but be prepared for a lengthy ride. Ride on the top of one of the double-deckers and enjoy the view of Repulse Bay as you go. For a quicker ride, take the MTR subway to Chai Wan Station and catch the No. 16M.

Hong Kong – Shopping in Nathan Road

Jennifer — Mon, 19 Mar 2007 01:46:45 +0000

Along the main thoroughfare in Kowloon stretches Hong Kong’s must-see shopping lane – Nathan Road. Bounded by Boundary Street in the north and Salisbury Road to the south, this hundred fifty year-old section is framed above by neon lights in true Hong Kong style.

Named after the former British governor, Sir Matthew Nathan, in 1909, the area was the northern limit of the colony prior to the signing of the 100-year New Territories lease in 1898. Even before being returned to the administration of the PRC government, there remained few reminders of the colonial past. The hustle of a typical Hong Kong market had long before replaced any stately British influence.

Today, Nathan Road is one of Hong Kong’s busiest commercial areas. At the lower end is the Golden Mile section, a name no longer much in use. Here are the shops topped by neon signs prominent in so many photos of the district.

Naturally, the bartering is intense and tourists should be cautious not to get ‘a deal’ that turns out to be slightly less than was explained. But bargaining with the native shopkeepers is all part of the fun of shopping in Hong Kong.

Crowded with visitors, you’ll find a huge variety of goods for sale. Some of the cheapest cameras, camcorders, and watches anywhere in Asia line the shelves. But sometimes cheap means inexpensive and other times it simply means, well, cheap. Buyer beware.

Besides consumer electronics goods are boutiques, perfume shops, restaurants, and street vendors of every shape and color. If you just have to buy a pair of shoes at midnight, Nathan Road is your destination. If you want that hand bag that is available nowhere else at a price you can’t believe, this is the spot.

Jade, of course, is a staple of the area. The Jade Market is up Nathan Road to Kansu Street in the Yau Ma Tei area. There are ornaments, jewelry, and even raw jade for sale.

There’s even a Dutch South African camera shop for those who want to bargain with a native who is a native of another country. Formerly called Van Der Merwe, it now goes by the name P.C. Cheng (Koos). Located at No. 2 Humphreys, just look for the South African flag hanging outside.

Take a break from the frenetic shopping experience and visit nearby Kowloon Park. Take in the minarets outside the Jamia Masjid India Mosque, a local Chinese Muslim gathering place. Have some lunch at one of the many tiny shops selling beef noodles. Or, if you prefer, try one of the Nepalese or Pakistani restaurants that dot the streets.

Even if it’s only for the pleasure of people watching and delighting in the dancing lights on the harbor at night, Nathan Road is an excellent attraction to add to your Hong Kong vacation.

Hong Kong – Mai Po Marsh

Jennifer — Sat, 17 Mar 2007 01:45:46 +0000

It will surprise many that Hong Kong is not all buildings and streets. Not far from the center of this bustling metropolis is one of the preeminent nature preserves on the planet.

A now-protected wetlands, the Mai Po Marsh is one of the world’s greatest sites of wild birds, fish, and insect populations. And fortunately for those sensitive to heat and humidity, summer isn’t the only good time to visit. From October to May the annual migration floods the marsh with hundreds of interesting species.

Part of the Ramsar site, Mai Po is an important part of the East Asian Flyway for migratory birds. Within these 1,500 hectares (3,675 acres) managed by the World Wildlife Fund can be found nearly 500 distinct species of bird. During the winter months the wetlands are home to over 50,000 migratory birds.

There are Purple Herons and Arctic Warblers, Brown Flycatchers and Great Egrets. Marsh Sandpipers abound and there are still some of the world’s only remaining Black-faced Spoonbills and Spoon-billed Sandpipers. One of the hardest to spot is the Ruff, but Asian Dowitchers are plentiful.

The wetlands also attract some of the many interesting indigenous insect species, such as the colorful dragonflies and butterflies native to Hong Kong. There are also other wildlife, such as otters and leopard cats.

The area itself is of some interest as well, comprising mudflats, mangroves, shrimp ponds and reed beds.

Visitors should be prepared for the conditions. That can mean unexpected rain. But it can also mean man-made changes that occur without notice. Attempts to control the number and location of species result in frequent changes. Areas are often alternately drained and flooded by the local authorities managing the wetlands.

As a result, guidebooks or blogs or other sources that report a good location for spotting certain species may or may not be accurate at the time of your visit. But don’t despair, there will be many others just as delightful.

A permit to visit the park is mandatory and costs around $100 HK ($13 US) for a one-day visitor pass. Visitors must be five years old or older. For more information visit http://www.wwf.org.hk/eng/maipo/

It’s wise to plan in advance as permits can often take several weeks to obtain. Booking three months in advance is best. It’s unwise to attempt to visit Mai Po without a permit. Authorities are very strict and don’t accept excuses from those caught in the area without one.

The WWF organizes regular three-hour tours on Saturdays, Sundays, and public holidays. Those arriving for the first time are well advised to take advantage of their expertise. A swampland is no good place to get lost. Maps are provided for those who want to go it on their own. The tour currently costs around $70 HK ($9 US) and for a few dollars more you can rent binoculars.

Finding the Mai Po Marsh is easy. It’s located on the northwest coast of the New Territories, neighboring the Deep Bay. Visitors can take the MTR subway to Nam Chong, change to the West Rail to Kam Tin, then take a taxi to Mai Po.

Hong Kong – Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb

Jennifer — Fri, 16 Mar 2007 01:45:17 +0000

Unearthed in 1955, the Lei Cheng Uk Han Tomb is a stellar example of a Han Dynasty burial chamber, nearly 2,000 years old.

Discovered while excavating for the present Lei Cheng Uk estate, the tomb has undergone extensive study and renovation since its opening to the public in 1957.

The tomb shows ample evidence of the influence of the Eastern Han Dynasty, including an inscription of Panyu on the tomb bricks. Panyu was a province of the period encompassing what is now Hong Kong. The design and other calligraphy establishes its age and history.

Now enclosed and visible through a large glass panel, the tomb contains four chambers in the shape of a cross. The design has no Christian religious significance, since Christianity was unknown in China at the time (Han Dynasty: 25AD-220AD).

Artifacts from the burial site, such as food storage, pottery and cooking vessels show the Chinese emphasis on food goes back millennia. Two of the recovered objects were bronze utensils and all are authentic. Also discovered were bronze bells, washing basins and mirrors, but oddly no human skeletal remains.

Next to the tomb is a large exhibit hall with photos, videos and other displays showing the history of the tomb and the excavation and conservation efforts.

A 3D digital animation video provides visitors with a detailed, 360 degree look inside the tomb. (There’s also a life-sized replica of the tomb at the Hong Kong Museum of History.) Since you can no longer enter the actual tomb, the video provides a ‘next-best’ view of the domed vault at the center and the four barrel-vaulted chambers.

Visitors will get a thorough explanation, through audio and text, of the efforts undertaken to preserve and understand the tomb. You can read all about how the inscriptions were deciphered and the means by which the artifacts were dated.

Next to the museum, you can stroll through the Han Garden. Completed in 1993, the Chinese garden follows the style of the Han Dynasty and adds to the re-creation of the atmosphere of the period. The garden includes pavilions, fishponds, terraces and rock sculptures typical of the times.

The tomb and grounds were once at the shore, but owing to modern land reclamations they are now over a mile inland. Don’t expect an Egyptian-style or ancient Scottish-style burial site, though. The tomb is surrounded by modern streets and buildings and covered with a modern protective canopy.

Getting to the museum and tomb site is easy. Simply take the West Rail to the Nam Cheong Station. Board bus No. 36A toward Lei Muk Shu and exit at Trade Square. Or, take the excellent MTR subway train to Cheung Sha Wan Station (A3) and walk along Tonkin Street to 41 Tonkin.

Hong Kong – Lantau Island and Nearby

Jennifer — Thu, 15 Mar 2007 01:44:48 +0000

Just as Hong Kong is itself an island, just off the mainland from Kowloon, so there are others less well known but equally worth a visit. Lantau Island, which houses the now famous Po Lin Monastery and the Tian Tan Buddha, is the central starting point for visits to these historical treasures.

Lantau Island houses much more than the exquisite Po Lin monastery and famed giant Buddha statue. A short bike ride from the monastery is Mui Wo. For those who prefer a less strenuous form of transportation there’s also a convenient bus from the main depot at Po Lin.

Mui Wo is on Silvermine Bay, named after the 19th century silver mines that provided wealth for some and hope for others. The Silvermine Cave where most of the digging took place is now sealed off for safety reasons, but the area still offers much to see. The peaceful coastal waters and many trails aside lush greenery make the side trip well worth the effort.

Located on the southwest corner of Lantau Island is Fan Lau, a fort built in 1729 to protect shipping on the Pearl River. Once among the most notorious areas – hotbed of smugglers of guns, drugs and people – the fort now provides arrivals with a more peaceful visit. The ruins provide an interesting look back to a – happily – bygone era.

West of Lantau Island is Tai O, known as ‘Hong Kong’s Venice’. Housing several temples, including Guandi, Yanghou and Hongshenye, this tiny fishing village offers visitors excellent shrimp paste and fish.

After a small meal, explore some of the waterways and pedestrian bridges that make this island facing the South China Sea so spectacular. Among the many interesting sights are the pang uk, houses built on stilts over the waterways.

The occupants of those houses are the descendants of an ancient people, the Tanka. Immigrants to the Hong Kong area during the Han Dynasty, the Tanka have been fishing and navigating these waters for hundreds of generations. Visitors can pay one of the local boat owners a small fee and take a trip out in hopes of catching sight of one of the renowned Chinese white dolphins.

The village also houses a small museum for visitors, but the streets themselves offer the best source of information about the area. Residents can tell polite visitors anything they want to know about its ancient history or contemporary situation.

For those truly looking for something out of the way, try a visit to Peng Chau. Along the quiet green hills, hikers can take a journey back through time only a short ferry ride away from bustling, ultra-modern Hong Kong.

Here you can enjoy a visit to the small Tin Hau temple, built in 1792. Walk around the less than one square kilometer island and take a hike up to Finger Hill, then take the ferry back to Hong Kong.

Hong Kong’s nearby island neighbors are welcoming and ready to proudly display their ancient heritage.

Hong Kong – Hong Kong Museum of History

Jennifer — Wed, 14 Mar 2007 01:44:19 +0000

Hong Kong is a bustling, ultra-modern city with an ancient past. This contrast is captured and displayed to perfection in the Hong Kong Museum of History. By means of dozens of interactive videos and computers, alongside hand-sculpted or carefully selected artifacts, Hong Kong’s long history is shown.

An introductory exhibit shows the history of the harbor and surroundings as far back as 400 million years, showing it’s geological formation and the development of local plant and animal life. In a room the size of a commercial airplane hangar, visitors can see and read about the tigers and black bears that used to occupy the area. The exhibit is accompanied by Natural History-style Neolithic exhibits of early Chinese mankind.

Fast forward to the more ‘recent’ 2,000 BC and the beginnings of Hong Kong civilization. Here we find dozens of examples of pottery, jewelry and other man-made objects from China’s early civilized period.

Museum-goers will get a sense of the life of the average Chinese by boarding a fishing ship in one exhibit. Surrounded by statues and puppets the life of a fishing family in Hong Kong harbor is vividly recreated. Exhibits explaining life in the Ming and Qing dynasties demonstrate why there was a mass migration to Hong Kong during those centuries.

A third of the museum is devoted to Hong Kong’s British colonial period, beginning about 200 years ago. Portrayed by a harbor and street scene that tourists can walk in and around, you’ll see the cargo on the wharf as it appeared generations before Hong Kong entered it’s modern phase. Realism is maximized by recreations of the docks, a period tea shop and others. The floor even vibrates with the hum of a steamer engine.

Visitors can see genuine photographs of Hong Kong streets as they were 100 years ago. You’ll see reminders of the Opium Wars along with Sun Yat-Sen’s activities that led to the establishment of the Chinese Republic.

Further down the hall is a large exhibit showing the Japanese occupation during WWII, complete with an air raid shelter and booming sound effects.

Film clips from the 1960s show the beginnings of Hong Kong’s leap into the jet age. A series of exhibits catalogs some of the tragic disasters that have tested the spirit of these indomitable people.

Zoom ahead to the latest ultra-modern skyscraper. Photos and model displays show visitors the Hong Kong they can see out the windows. Some of the most innovative buildings along some of the world’s busiest streets remind visitors of New York times ten.

Now housed in a stylish, modern building, the museum was formed in 1962 and split from the Hong Kong Museum of Art in 1975. Small by British Museum or Smithsonian standards, at 17,500 square meters, the museum will nonetheless entrance visitors for hours.

The museum is easy to reach by the subway system. Take the MTR to Tsim Sha Tsui. Take exit B2 and walk along Cameron Road. Or take the Star Ferry from Central district then board the bus. The museum is located at 100 Chatham Road South, next door to the Science Museum.

Hong Kong – Hong Kong Disneyland

Jennifer — Tue, 13 Mar 2007 01:43:26 +0000

Opened in September, 2005, the Hong Kong Disneyland is the fifth theme park offered by the entertainment company. Located on reclaimed land in Penny’s Bay on Lantau Island, the park is already enjoying huge crowds.

Similar to other Disney parks, there are four themed areas – Main Street, USA, Adventureland, Fantasyland and Tomorrowland. The park as a whole is smaller than others, but the company has long term expansion plans and already offers much more than a visitor can do in one day. With the recent addition of Autopia, Stitch Encounter and UFO Cool Zone that’s more true than ever.

Park visitors can see all the sights familiar from Disneyland in Anaheim or Paris. Along with the rides favorite Disney characters wander the park in costume and provide photo opportunities for the kids. Of course, since it’s Hong Kong, don’t be surprised if you hear Mickey speaking Mandarin!

Main Street in Hong Kong Disneyland is a perfect duplicate of the one in California and guests can ride the Omnibus, the Paddy Wagon or cruise along in one of the Main Street taxis. Inside the theater there’s film on the building of the park.

Adventureland offers many of the same attractions as Anaheim with a Jungle River Cruise and rafts to Tarzan Island. Be sure not to miss the Festival of the Lion King at Theater in the Wild.

Tourists will want to catch the Mickey’s PhilharMagic and see Maestro Mickey in his 3D adventure. Younger kids will want to take a spin on the Cinderella Carousel, based on the famous Disney movie. Old and young kids alike will enjoy boarding the Winnie the Pooh Hunny Pot and taking a journey through the Hundred Acre Wood.

Just as at other Disney parks, Tomorrowland offers the familiar Space Mountain rollercoaster and the Buzz Lightyear Journey to Infinity and Beyond. Board the Orbitron to pilot your personal flying saucer. Drive an electric car through the alien landscape in Autopia.

Visit Space Traffic Control and watch the fluffy blue alien Stitch (of Stitch & Lilo fame) deal with his arch-nemesis Gantu. Stitch is depending on the guests to help him escape. Visitors can even get a free lesson in speaking Hawaiian to go with the Mandarin they pick up while there.

There’s a daily Disney on Parade with all the well-known and beloved Disney characters marching through Fantasyland and down Main Street.

In true Hong Kong style, the music and dance of Disney in the Stars is accompanied by spectacular fireworks. Hum your favorite Disney tunes while watching the colorful display of choreographed explosions.

Ultimately, the company expects to be able to handle up to 10 million visitors per year. Come be one of them, but as with any Disney park be prepared for the crowds. Ever since it opened, it has been extremely popular.

Hong Kong – Overview

Jennifer — Mon, 05 Mar 2007 01:46:44 +0000

Home and work for over 15 million and one of the three most active business centers on the planet, Hong Kong also offers dozens of things to see and do for tourists. In fact, there’s no good place to start or end because there is so much more than could ever be experienced within a few days.

Visitors could start by getting a good workout followed by a spectacular sight. No, walking up Victoria Peak isn’t a good idea. But climbing the 431 steps to reach the Temple of 10,000 Buddhas is. It actually delivers more than it offers – a Hong Kong habit – by containing 12,800 statues of the Buddha. And don’t miss the holy man mummy covered with gold leaf.

If 431 is overdoing it, try the 268 steps to reach the Big Buddha on Lantau Island. After seeing the world’s largest seated Buddha, completed in 1993, you can relax and have a great lunch at the Polin Monastery. Then take your time walking down the 33m (110 foot) height.

On the Kowloon Peninsula, just across from Hong Kong Island there are dozens of sights, including some spectacular museums.

You can wander the neighborhood and see the Hong Kong area pretty much the way it has been for 200 years. The stalls may offer the latest cell phones, but the ambiance is definitely old-world.

After soaking up some of the local culture, take a stroll over to the Hong Kong Heritage Museum. This excellent facility gives visitors a great overview of Chinese art in all its forms from comic strips to opera to painting and sculpture.

Take in the Lei Cheng Uk Branch Museum and see a Han Dynasty tomb from China’s ‘recent’ history, only 2,000 years old. It may be the oldest historical monument in Hong Kong, but that’s still young compared to some of the 4,000 year old civilizations elsewhere in China.

Then zoom into the modern world and check out the Hong Kong Science Museum. The hands-on exhibits will delight while they entertain. The same could be said for the Space Museum, which houses the local planetarium.

Take then the most famous 10-minute boat ride in Asia, the Star Ferry, over to Hong Kong Island and take in some more ancient Chinese art at the Hong Kong Museum of Art. Located in the Hong Kong Cultural Center, it holds over 2,000 Chinese antiques.

Finally take a breather from all the metropolitan hustle and bustle and stroll through the Hong Kong Park in the Central district. Sit by the pond and watch the birds or wander through the stellar aviary to see even more variety. Have a meal at the open-air restaurant and rest your feet.

If you’re not quite fully refreshed, take a leisurely walk to a site about 10 minutes away and visit the Hong Kong Zoological and Botanical Gardens.

Then catch a taxi to the tram that leads up to the top of Victoria Peak. This funicular railway (a cab suspended by cables) leads up the steep mountain to the area of $10 million homes owned by the richest of Hong Kong’s rich. Enjoy the sight they see from their balconies and look out over Hong Kong and the harbor.

Whether seen by day or night the lush, ancient hills and the harbor contrast beautifully with the ultra-modern skyscrapers for a view duplicated nowhere else.

As you stand there dreaming of a glorious future – another Hong Kong habit – you can soak up some memories of one of the world’s great cities.